March 16, 2023. Douglas, AZ to Rodeo, NM. 52 miles, 1,400 feet of elevation

Well, here I sit in a leaky tent, in the middle of a driving rain and windstorm just outside of Rodeo, NM. I’m reminded of that scene in the Wizard of Oz, where the storm threatens to blow my little nylon house in circles. I only hope that my electronics (front and back bike light, phone, and watch) are well under cover, but it might not matter, given the intensity of the winds which is causing the rain to move horizontally. The puddles are only in 4 places inside the tent, so I’m hoping that we will get a respite before I can add “indoor swimming pool” to my list of accommodations. But alas, into each life a little rain must fall, so I will continue to count the raindrops, and the moments until the storm subsides.

Despite the rough weather at the end of the day, the cycling day today was a pretty big success. We benefitted from a relatively strong tailwind and relatively flat roads, which allowed us to get to camp around 1:00pm, including a time change crossing from Arizona to New Mexico, where we lost one hour. The cook met us along the route, and served hot dogs that appeared to be at least 18 inches long. We have really benefitted from his services since we left, enjoying eggs and sausage for breakfast and steak, chicken, salmon, and pasta for dinner. I’ll probably be the only person to cycle across the US and gain 15 pounds in the process!

There have been some “mishaps” along the way, which have previously gone unreported. In the spirit of transparency, (though careful not to alarm anyone), I can report that we had one person staying at the hotel in Tombstone (NOT IN OUR GROUP), who apparently suffered a fatal heart attack. The emergency vehicles came around 11:30 – 12:00 at night and attempted resuscitation, but was unsuccessful. While this person was not a part of our group, admittedly it made us all pause and be thankful for our families and friends, as well as our good fortune so far along the way. Our prayers go out to those who have suffered the loss of loved ones.

Continuing in the same spirit, I must report that one of our group did in fact have a fairly bad accident yesterday, though thankfully survived, suffering only minor scrapes and bruises. He was about 15 minutes behind me, coming out of Bisbee, AZ, and was descending down an incline at a fairly high speed just past the copper mines when one of the many cross-winds we have experienced forced him off the road, and OVER the guard rail. Fortunately, the clips on his shoes released, separating the rider from his bike. He and his bike went sailing over the railing and into the brush. There were a number of people around who were able to help him. Miraculously, his injuries were minor and his bike only suffered some minor damage, which was easily repaired. The man, from the Netherlands, had been quite boisterous and upbeat over the past few weeks, but I think the experience has provided a different perspective. I spoke to him at breakfast this morning, and he indicated his willingness to proceed. Having just traveled the same route, I am glad I took a cautious speed down the same incline just moments before.

On a much lighter note, I’m told that the descent yesterday was so dramatic that the group I was riding in traveled five (5) miles in eleven (11) minutes, which certainly sets a personal record for me. It appears our top speed was around 32 miles an hour, and I am pretty sure that we won’t be duplicating that speed anytime soon. The route today was relatively straightforward without much to report, however. We did come upon a monument that commemorates the surrender of Geronimo, the last Apache chieftain, who surrendered in 1886 to General Nelson Miles. According to the monument, the surrender of Geronimo in Skeleton Canyon marked the end of Indian warfare in the U.S. I’m guessing that after getting a good look at Rodeo, Mexico, Geronimo knew that there wasn’t much to look forward to. After staying here, I think he made a pretty good decision.

Our group of riders, posing at the Gadsden Hotel just before dinner. Note the man in the front row, second to the far right, with the big smile. That’s Piet, the man that earlier in the day sailed over the guardrail. You’ve got to admire his spirit and resiliency!
I admit that this is a strange photo. According to legend, Pancho Villa, a general in the Mexican Revolution rode his horse up the marble steps inside the Gadsden Hotel. The chips on the stairs, shown with arrows, is some of the damage Pancho’s horse made as he carried Pancho up the steps. Even though there was a fancy new elevator, apparently Pancho elected to have his horse take the stairs. (Maybe because the horse wouldn’t fit in the elevator).
A picture of the copper mine we cycled past, just outside of Bisbee, Arizona. The picture doesn’t do justice to the grandeur of the scene.

We now are completely out of Arizona, and on the east side of the Chiricahua Mountains. The camp we are staying in is VERY isolated, with only the Chiricahua Museum a short walk away. This museum is full of reptiles and other creatures in the area, and holds the largest collection of herpetological wildlife art in the world. I feel absolutely terrible that I’m missing the beginning of the museum tour, but then again it might help me avoid some nightmares. They just came to add an additional covering for my tent, so among many other things, I am thankful and hoping to avoid rain in the middle of the night. We shall see!

Tomorrow, day 15 of the tour, is a big one. We are scheduled to cycle from Rodeo to Columbus, NM in Hidalgo County. The route’s elevation is 1,700 feet, and is scheduled to cover 92 miles, which will be a personal record for me. I’m hoping that the rain and wind let up, allowing us a little relief for what promises to be a challenging day. I hope everything is well with each of you. Thanks for all of your encouragement and support!

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